7 FORMS OF DEFECTS IN PLASTER
TYPES
OF DEFECTS IN PLASTER
The
causes and repair methods for each are discussed below.
1. NON-STRUCTURAL CRACKS
Crazing
is a network of fine cracks, usually in a hexagonal pattern, which measure
between 5 and 75 mm across each hexagon. They are usually very fine and shallow
and do not extend through the whole depth of the plaster. They are usually the
result of over troweling a rich mix (one with high cement content) or using
sand containing an excessive amount of dust (more than 15% by mass passing a
0,075 mm sieve).
Crazing
often occurs within a few hours of the plaster being applied to the wall and
cracks may hardly be visible until dust or moisture makes them noticeable.
Craze cracks are of little importance, do not open and close with time, and can
be covered using reasonable quality paint. If necessary, glass fibre tissue can
be applied during the painting operation.
Map
cracking is similar to crazing except that it is usually deeper (sometimes
going through the plaster) and the hexagons of the pattern may measure up to
200 mm across. These cracks normally occur when a plaster mix with high cement
content is used or the plaster is allowed to dry too quickly.
Causes
of excessive early moisture loss are:
Evaporation
if the wall is not protected from sun and wind.
Suction
into the walls if the bricks are absorbent and they have not been dampened.
Use
of sand that is badly graded and lacks fine material (less than 5% by mass
passing the 0,075 mm sieve).
Not
using building lime or a masonry cement when the sand lacks fine material.
When
the cracks are noticed while the plaster is still plastic, they are often
floated closed, only to reappear some time later. These cracks can be filled
with proprietary filler and painted over. Glass fiber tissue can also be
applied during painting.
Cracking
which results when an excessive amount of water is lost from the plaster in the
first hours after application is known as plastic shrinkage cracking. Map
cracking can be due to plastic shrinkage as can the horizontal cracks which
form at corners and between windows.
Drying
shrinkage cracks are the result of moisture loss after the plaster has
hardened. Plaster will always shrink and crack so it is desirable that is
should develop a large number of fine, unnoticeable cracks at close spacings.
Plasters with very high cement contents and those which are made with poor
quality sands having a high water requirement will tend to develop a few,
widely-spaced cracks. Plaster applied in layers that are too thick will also
tend to crack in this way. These cracks are normally stable and can be filled
with proprietary filler and painted over.
2. STRUCTURAL CRACKS
Some
cracks visible in the plaster may result from cracking of the wall. This can be
caused by differential movement of the foundations, moisture expansion or
drying shrinkage of masonry units, or thermal movement of the roof. This type
of crack often forms in straight vertical or horizontal lines, or in stepped
diagonal lines, and may be quite unsightly. The crack width will often vary
with the seasons.
Because
these cracks originate in the wall and not in the plaster, repairing the
plaster is ineffective. A specialist should be called in to establish the cause
of the cracking and to recommend remedial measures.
Such
measures may include structural alterations which change cracks into movement
joints. Visible joints can be hidden by cover strips fixed on one side of the
joint or sealed with elastomeric sealants.
3. DEBONDING
Debonding
of plaster is often noticed as a hollow sound when the surface is tapped.
Plaster is inclined to curl and debond from the wall because the outside skin
of the plaster that is exposed to the air will shrink at a different rate from
the plaster in contact with the wall. This is especially true of excessively
thick plaster layers. Because debonding is generally the result of inadequate
preparation of the substrate, it is important to make sure that the bond
between plaster and wall is as good as possible. This can be done by:
·
Cleaning dusty or oily walls thoroughly.
·
Allowing the walls to reach the correct
moisture content.
·
Using a cement slurry or spatter dash coat
before plastering.
·
Using bonding liquids and following the
procedure recommended by the manufacturer.
·
Small areas of debonding (about the size
of a plate) are not significant, but larger areas should be removed and
replaced.
4. LACK OF HARDNESS
There
are no specifications covering the hardness or strength of plaster, and there
is no reliable way of measuring it. Evaluation is often carried out by
scratching the surface with a hard sharp object such as a screwdriver or a key,
and is consequently quite subjective.
It
is often better to have a slightly weaker plaster that is less likely to show
significant cracking or debonding than one which is too strong. However, very
weak plasters will be unable to resist impacts, will have reduced resistance to
water penetration and picture nails will tend to fall out. They also tend to
encourage moss growth on sheltered faces particularly if poor quality paint is
used.
There
are five common causes of soft plaster:
·
Insufficient cement
·
The use of sand containing excessive
quantities of dust (more than 15% by mass passing the 0,075 mm sieve)
·
The use of a mix with poor water retention
properties
·
The addition of extra water sometime after
first mixing (a practice known as re tempering)
·
Rapid drying due to plastering in full sun
or wind
The
only one of these causes which can be confirmed by testing hardened plaster in
the laboratory is that of insufficient cement.
Unpainted
plaster can be treated with methyl methacrylate products. These materials may
increase hardness to some degree.
Painted
plaster can only be removed and replaced. The inconvenience of this option has
to be weighed up against living with the weak, unsatisfactory plaster. A coat
of high quality exterior paint will normally reduce the risk of water
penetration to acceptable levels if the plaster is strong enough to hold such
paint. Areas which are particularly susceptible to impact, such as corners, can
be re-plastered with relatively little disruption.
5. GRINNING
Grinning
is the term given to the appearance of a plastered wall when the positions of
the mortar joints are clearly visible through the plaster. It is caused by the
difference in suction between the masonry units and the mortar. Raking out
mortar joints also causes grinning and the practice should thus be limited to
soft clay brickwork.
While
grinning may be unsightly, it is unlikely to lead to further cracking. The
choice is to live with it, or to remove and replace the plaster. Application of
an undercoat or a spatter dash coat before plastering will help to avoid
grinning.
6. EXPANSION
This
includes swelling, softening, layer cracking and spelling of the plaster. It is
usually caused by the inclusion of proprietary gypsum-based products in the
mix. Under moist conditions, the sulfate from the gypsum reacts with the
Portland cement paste and forms compounds of increased volume which disrupt the
plaster.
The
only remedy for expansion-induced disruption due to gypsum in the mix is to
remove and replace the plaster.
7. POPPING
Pop
outs are conical fragments that break out of the surface of the plaster leaving
holes which vary in size. They are caused by the presence of contaminant
particles in the mix which, reacting with the moisture in the mix, expand and
cause cavities in the plaster. Contaminants are usually seeds, other organic
material, or particles of dead burnt lime.
Once
the cause of the pop out has been removed, the hole can be filled with
proprietary filler and painted over.
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